Today, COS returned to the runway for its first show in Korea, presenting the house’s Spring Summer 2026 collection in Seoul following itinerant shows across Europe and four consecutive appearances on September’s New York Fashion Week schedule.
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A cinematic return to the runway: COS unveils its Spring Summer 2026 collection during first show in Korea
Exploring the language of cinematic beauty, each piece reflects a balance of ‘80s and ‘90s nostalgia, articulated through silhouettes shaped by craftsmanship, materiality and precise tailoring.
The show unfolded within a brutalist inspired space on the outer edges of the city. Unused pools were reimagined to create a surreal architectural canvas, while the set – grounded in simplicity, material duality and modernism – introduced a clean, geometric spatial intervention, an unexpected stage for COS’ Spring Summer 2026 collection. Captured on the Seoul subway, a soundtrack played the sounds of the city while models traversed the expansive basin along a platform interwoven with structural columns, emerging through a soft haze with confidence and poise.
40 distinctive looks revealed a palette of slate greys, warm browns, creams and whites, establishing tonal harmony and a sense of understated uniformity. Accents of blue and deep oxblood red punctuated the collection with richness and depth, creating timeless head-to-toe looks.
Material exploration heightens the dimensionality of the season: leather and technical fabrications carry a subtle sheen, emphasising intentional drape and sculptural form; paper-like surfaces introduce crinkled tactility; while linen melanges add textural depth. On the runway, ethereal transparency offered subtle glimpses of the body in motion, while airy, lightweight fabrics moved effortlessly, reinforcing a mood of quiet sophistication.
In womenswear, a distilled simplicity reminiscent of ’90s minimalism clarifies the silhouette, softened by fine, sheer ribbed knits across dresses and coordinating styles, while strong shoulders introduce a subtle nod to ’80s power dressing. Signature tailoring is reimagined through fluid fabrics and controlled draping, as trompe l’oeil denim, rendered in silk, offers a modern interpretation of set dressing. Silk recurs throughout the collection: softly pleated in the atelier, sculpted into an off-shoulder gown, and expressed through a signature shirt that simultaneously conveys precision and ease. Material manipulation continues throughout softly gathered looks, elegantly draped on the stand, while transitional outerwear – reconsidered through proportion and sculptural lengths – creates a contrast between classicism and modernity, innovation and artistry. The looks are completed with wardrobe icons reimagined through the COS lens, including supple leather plimsolls, architecturally heeled mules and bags crafted in complementing fabrications.
In Menswear, new perspectives reconfigure everyday dressing. Transitional outerwear evokes a sense of modern heritage, while relaxed tailoring, cut in slimmer silhouettes, captures skilful construction. Pared-back utility references emerge through functional detailing, while tonal ensembles inspired by ’80s styling offer a fresh interpretation of the contemporary uniform. Suede introduces a quiet yet assured sense of luxury to warm-weather dressing. Accessories finish the looks with timeless soft leather sandals and effortless loafers – classic designs subtly reimagined with a modern twist.
A selection of the show items is available immediately at COS stores and on cos.com.
Watch the show.
